Article publié pour la première fois le 26/03/2016
Article publié pour la première fois le 19/03/2017
Learn how to do vibrancy masking in Photoshop. You’ll learn how to increase saturation with the Channel Mixer and then use Vibrancy masking to control whether you want it to affect the vibrant or non-vibrant areas. This technique works amazingly well for landscapes and it’s a great when you want to get the most intense and vibrant colors you can from your photo.
The post Vibrancy Masking – How to Get Ultra Vibrant Photos in Photoshop appeared first on Photoshop Tutorials.
Today we’re going to be taking a look at a few basic techniques to get you started using Photoshop’s blending options to give you some very nice looking results fairly quickly!
Here we’ll be giving basic graphic shapes some depth and style with blending options. I chose to use a humming bird as the basic shape however this can be used however you’d like! I’ll be explaining as well as showing my settings for this look but I encourage you to experiment to get comfortable using these methods on your own! I’ll also be going over some techniques I use to get some nice bright colors in an otherwise dull piece rather quickly. You’ll need Photoshop CS3 or newer to follow this tutorial.
- Humming Bird – Shutterstock – However any stock photo can be used as its only for reference and wont be seen in the final result.
- Smoke – Shutterstock – Again something you can find for free on sites like Free Stock Photo Exchange or Deviantart.
- Concrete Texture for Background Shutterstock – However free sites can offer similar results.
- Metal textures From CGTextures, a great site for high quality tetxures.
- Bokeh Textures – Feel free to use the one you like best in combination with your color scheme.
First up let’s make a document to work on. I like to use a nice big size with plenty of resolution to work with so it makes it easier to scale later on. However your welcome to use any size you see fit or that runs best on your computer.
For the base of our background make a new layer (Shift+Control+N on pc) and used a green gradient. From light (#14dc02) in the center to dark (#008325) on the edges. This might seem subtle now but it will help us later on when we use textures to give focus to the subject without being overwhelming.
Lets go ahead and bring in the first of our background textures, the concrete. I like to keep mine as smart objects so they can scale down and back up without loosing resolution in case you change your mind. For this we can set the blending mode to Soft Light and opacity to 27%. Below you can see that we’ll want to position it in the center so it covers the whole image.
We’re going to do the same for the next two textures, make sure the cover the whole image setting their blending mode and opacity accordingly. Experiment a little here and find what looks good for you by rotating though different options at different opacities. Remember though this is the background, we want it to enhance our image and provide interest without overwhelming the focus of our piece. I also used a black and white filter (Adjustments > Black and White) on Auto to tone it down just a little bit. After your happy with your background its good to group it all together, select the all the layers you want grouped using SHIFT and clicking the ones you want and clicking CONTROL+G or going to Layer > Group Layers. You can even color code a group as you would a layer by right clicking on it and selecting a color at the bottom.
Now that we’ve got our background all grouped up and organized its time to bring in the main subject. Depending on what you chose to use this part will be a little different but the process is the same. We’ll be using the pen tool to define our shapes the filling them with color by closing the shape and right clicking then selecting fill path. That will bring up the menu below where you’ll want to change the contents section to COLOR and select the color you want from the color picker. Remember to make all new shapes on new layers, with something like this you can end up with a lot of layers so its important to stay organized with groups and proper names (I.E. “body” “wings” and so on) and then even further you can group all these groups into one called “Bird” or whatever you’d like to call it. This will play a role later in getting a blending style over the subject as a whole.
So here we find ourselves with the subject all shaped out with with each shape in its own layer. Now we can group all the layers and groups for the subject into one group, I called mine “HummingBird”. Now what we’re going to do is apply an overall style to the subject as a whole by right clicking on your main group and clicking on Blending Options. Any styles we put in here will effect the group as if it was all one object rather than individual layers, very useful for giving the whole thing a drop shadow and the orange around the edge. Below you’ll find all the settings I used, play with them a little bit and see what you can come up with!
Now it may not look like much right now but its getting there! This next step will really pull it together and you’ll get an idea of how its coming together! We’re going to select any of the individual shape layers and apply the following settings in blending options. I usually go with the biggest shape so I can see how my settings look clearly as I apply them. When you’re happy with your results we’re going to apply it to the rest of your shape layers by right clicking on the layer you’ve applyed the style too and clicking COPY STYLE. Then we can right click on our shape layers and PASTE STYLE. Make this quicker by highlighting multipe layers at a time and pasting. (The pattern overlay here is entirely optional if your comfortable making your own patterns and bringing them into photoshop, a quick google search will show you how to do this)
Now that we have the Blending Options all set on each of our shape layers things are starting to look a lot like the final result! But there are still a few things we can do to really make this shine! First we’ll add the metal texture to each layer using clipping masks. There are a few ways to do this, including the Pattern Overlay option in our blending options but I like clipping masks personally because of the level of control. To do this place the texture youd like to use in a layer over the layer or group you’d like it too effect as shown below. Right click on it selecting Create Clipping Mask. This will make it so that it only shows up on the layer below it, clipping masks can be stacked so they all effect the one at the bottom. Position and rotate your texture for each group or layer to give a unique look to each one, this will add a sense of depth and help differentiate one layer from another. Change the Blending Mode to SOFT LIGHT and adjust your Opacity to your liking though I kept mine at 100% so
Getting close to the end! Now we’re going to bring in that smoke texture, I got mine from a stock I purchased for another project but many can be found on sites like Deviantart and Free Stock Exchange. Bring it in on a layer above your background group but below the main subjects group, for smoke on a black background set the blending mode to screen, this will show only the whitest parts and make the blacker areas opaque, a very useful blending mode for things like dust, fire, smoke, even water splashes. If the smoke is too transparent try duplicating the layer on top of itself and using the same blending mode.We’ll also be using a layer mask to mask it out around the edges of the subject or however you’d like to give it a bit of variation from from the stiffness of our main subject (Layer > Layer Mask > Reveal All) Using layer masks can be very usful and is covered in a lot of tutorials but for those that don’t know it allows you to paint layers transparancy on using a black or white paintbrush (Black being fully transparent and white being fully opaque.) without deleting the image like the eraser tool does.
Great Work! Your composition is complete! This final part is optional but could be informative for anyone whos interested in learning about color work and Gradiant Maps to give your work some interesting colors. To explain Gradiant Maps are like a Black and White filter but insead of Black and White you can control the colors involved. Go ahead and play around with it! Gradiant Maps can be a great tool for adding some great and vibrant colors to your picture as a whole, as well as giving it a overall more cohesive look, which is very important in works like photomanipulations, not as important in something like this but still can add to the feel of it! I also added a levels layer for some added contrast. Below are the settings for my adjustment layers, with my gradiant maps I usually reduce the opacity down to below 10% to add subtle changes. I would encourage you to play around with these to get a hang of how they work and how to use them!
Tutorial by Jacob Pryor
It’s almost the holidays and if you’re looking for a last minute gift, here are some great ideas that will ship before Christmas (assuming you buy it today). We selected items that can be shipped via Amazon Prime or are digital goods that can be bought any time.
A Wacom pen tablet is still one of the most popular accessories. It makes creating strokes easy and natural. It’s great for digital artists and even photographers are finding it useful for retouching tasks like dodging and burning, masking, etc.
A light pad is immensely useful for drawing and tracing. They use to be expensive but with the advancement in LED manufacturing, prices have dropped significantly making them affordable for everyone. The Huion light pad is one of the slimmest available.
This mini tripod is one of the best we’ve come across. It’s one of the best looking tripods that can actually hold a decent amount of weight for its size. Before ordering, make sure that the style you pick can arrive before Christmas (because some styles don’t). For heavier cameras, look into the Manfrotto Pixi Evo 2.
A gift for someone special? Really special? The Sony RX100 V is expensive… but it’s also the best compact camera. Photographers usually have big DSLR cameras already so if you’re looking for something they don’t already have, this is a great everyday camera that even the pickiest photographer will like. It takes amazing photos even in low-light, has more autofocusing points than anyone needs, shoots at an insane 24 fps, and can record 4k movies with no cropping. Oh and it’s perfect for vlogging.
Sometimes the best gifts aren’t tools of the trade. Nanoblocks are great gifts for anyone. The pieces are a fraction of the size of regular Lego bricks giving them more detail in a much smaller size.
Another great toy to get are Qixels. These let you create your own 3D pixel art and it’s perfect for anyone who has an interest in 8-bit art, gaming, MS Paint, etc.
Lightroom and Photoshop CC… or you can get them review to learn more about it.
Digital assets are huge this year! Creative Market is one of our favorite marketplaces for fonts, graphics, Photoshop add-ons, and more. If you’re looking for a last-last-last minute gift, a gift card is a great choice.
The post Last Minute Gifts for Photographers, Designers and Artists appeared first on Photoshop Tutorials.
Learn how to create this beautiful ruins landscape with magical shafts of light. This Photoshop tutorial will show you how to add ruined buildings to the peaks of a snowy mountain landscape, add mystical light shafts, and a marching army.
Some resources may not be available anymore – this is one of the downsides of free stock photos. If that happens, use the “Alternative” link instead. These tutorials can typically be recreated with lower-res or similar-looking stock photos.
- Background by mimose-stock
- Ruin #1 by WesternStock (Alternative)
- Ruin #2 by Random-Acts-Stock
- Ruin #3 by CAStock
- Tower by NickiStock
- Mist Brushes by Pelleron
- Sun Ray Brushes by Pelleron
- Bird Brushes by Ipdragonfly
Step 1 – Preparing Background
Create a new document in Photoshop. Set its dimensions on 2337x 1315 pixels and press OK. The aspect ration of this photo manipulation is 16:9 to create more movie like feel. Press OK.
Download the background photo listed in the beginning of the tutorial and drag it into your new file. Name this new layer BACKGROUND.
Tip: It’s a very useful habit to name all your layers. It’s very time effective once you work with many layers and need to find something quickly to adjust it.
Step 2 – Adding the Ruin in the Background
Download the photo of the ruin (Ruin #1) listed in the beginning of the tutorial and drag it into your photo manipulation. Name this the layer RUIN IN BACKGROUND and drag it on the top of all layers. (If you don’t see the layer palette press F7 on your keyboard or go to Window > Layers to activate it).
Press Ctrl + T to activate the Free Transform Tool and resize the ruin on the proper size (see the preview image to get the example). Press Ctrl while doing it to preserve the same proportions. After you’re done press Enter on your keyboard to apply the changes.
Cut out the background of the ruins. There is plenty of ways how you can do it (e.g. with the Lasso Tool (L), the Pen Tool (P), the Brush Tool (B)). Just choose the one you’re the most comfortable with.
Step 3 – Darkening the Ruin
To make it more realistic looking you need to make the ruin bit darker. You can adjust that very easily by adding new adjustment layer Curves on the top of all layers. Click on the button Create a new fill or adjustment layers on the bottom part of your layers palette.
Choose the option Curves and set it same as on the following image.
Create Clipping mask from this adjustment layer to adjust only one layer below (=RUIN IN BACKGROUND) and not the rest of the image. To do that right click on the adjustment layer Curves and simply choose the option Create Clipping Mask.
Step 4 – Adding Ruin on the Left
Download photo of the ruin (Ruin #2) listed in the beginning of the tutorial and drag it into your photo manipulation. Place it on the top of all layers and name it LEFT RUIN. Cut out the unwanted background.
There are couple steps which need to be done to blend the building properly. Let’s start with colors. Make sure the layer LEFT RUIN is active (just click on it in the Layers palette). And then go to Image > Adjustments > Match Color… . Set the dialogue window as on the following picture and press OK.
After this step your photo manipulation should look like the one on the following image.
Step 5 – Blending the Ruin
In this step you’ll add two more adjustments to create the ruin bluer and less saturated. Let’s start with making it bluer.
Add new adjustment layer Color Balance on the top of all layers and set it as on the following image.
Create clipping mask from this adjustment layer. To lower the saturation of LEFT RUIN add new adjustment layer Vibrance on the top of all layers and set the value Vibrance on -10. Create clipping mask from this adjustment layer too.
On the following photo you can compare how the ruins look before and after the adjustments.
Step 8 – Adding Tower
As you can see on the preview picture there is a tower on the left ruin. You’ll add it in this step.
Download the photo of tower listed in the beginning of the tutorial and drag it into your photo manipulation. Place in on the top of all layers and name it TOWER. Press Ctrl + T and resize it on proper size. Cut out the background.
To make it more 3D looking, add new adjustment layer Curves on the top of all layers and set it as on the following image.
Create clipping mask from this adjustment layer to adjust only TOWER.
You want to make only some parts of the tower darker. Not the whole photo. To do that grab the Paint Bucket Tool (G) and fill the layer mask of this adjustment layer with black color.
Grab the Brush Tool (B). Select some soft round brush and set the Diameter on about 20px. Lower the Opacity on 50% and start painting over the areas of the tower which should be on the opposite side from the sun. Take a look at the following image where you should paint. These parts are highlighted with red color.
Article publié pour la première fois le 25/10/2016
In this tutorial, you’ll learn how to create abstract and fantastic photo manipulation with a immersive, 3-D and Radiation effects! You will learn how to working with Smart filters in Photoshop and use them, create your own brush from lightning’s, quick and simple work techniques and many other! Then complete it with a dark or color tone effects, as you wish. This tutorial directed to improve your skills of work in Photoshop. Read this tutorial and immerse yourself in the wonderful universe of creativity!
What you’ll be creating
We’ll start by adding the image of mine. Then add the spheres. The next step will adding glow and lightning. Create a special brush “exploding lightning”. We will continue to work on the texture to create the effect of radiation. At the end of the work we will work on toning. I will show you two options of coloring and you can make them. You need attentiveness, diligence and good humor as possible, all version of Photoshop.
Create a new document. Go to File > New or the short key Cmd /Ctrl+ N. A blank document with size of 3000 pixels wide and 2000 pixels high, resolution 200 Pixels/Inch. I named the document “Omega”.
Now I have added a background picture. Go to File > Place and select the image “d3wd0057___Altitude_Chamber_by_d3wd”.
Use the Free Transform tool (Ctrl/Cmd+ T or Edit > Free Transform) to resize the layer like shown in the image. Increase the size of the image so that the outside of the working area remained mesh with the foreground.
Duplicate this layer once (use the short key Cmd /Ctrl+ J or Layer > Duplicate Layer). Now make with the help of the duplicated layer, an effect 3-D. Go to Layer Style > Blending Options in a Layer panel.
Now to get a 3-D effect need to remove the checkbox from red channel. You can experiment with other channels and get unexpected results!
You have already seen the effect? No!? Do not worry! Now it appear. Set a Move Tool (V), using the arrow keys to move picture (My combination: down three times and twice to the left). That’s it! Can try to move image, but do not overdo it :).
Add a Layer mask to this layer. Take a Brush Tool (B) with there settings: Size: 500px, Hardness: 0%, Opacity: 100% (Click D then X on keyboard to set background color to Black). Edge of the brush, remove effect from shaft.
Time to add the spheres. In the resource that you have downloaded the 15 kinds of spheres. You can choose what you like. I used “tester sphere3” I liked it because of the interesting shape and unusual textures. Resembles a ball of energy or substance that changes its form. Go to File > Place and select the image “tester sphere3” in folder “3D_sphere_renders_by_in_the_skies”. Do not worry about the format “TARGA (.tga)”. Photoshop fully realizes its.
Resize the layer like shown in the image (Ctrl/Cmd+ T or Edit > Free Transform). Place the sphere inside the shaft, (place it in the center, and then lift up a little).
Select a Magic Wand Tool (W) and click on white background of sphere. Then Invert selection (the short keys Cmd /Ctrl+ Shift + I). Selected to become a sphere, and not background. Add a Layer Mask to remove background.
Duplicate sphere layer once (use the short key Cmd /Ctrl+ J or Layer > Duplicate Layer). Change a Blending mode to “Linear Dodge (Add)”. This layer helps to give shiny effect to the sphere and make texture more “live”.
Back to the first sphere to create a small spheres. To make this easier, use a Move Tool (V) + hold Option/Alt. Drag the the sphere to the right place. So you can quickly duplicate the sphere and work with them.
To resize spheres use Free Transform tool (Ctrl/Cmd+ T or Edit > Free Transform). Reduce the size of spheres depending on the close to floor. Rotate the sphere so that the lightest part is directed towards the central sphere.
So I endeared sphere. You can try to make your own version and arrange them differently. To make the picture a little more interesting, I made a double sphere.
Merge all layers with the spheres (select layers and use Cmd /Ctrl+ E or Layer > Merge Layers…) except a central sphere and its additional layer.
Add a Layer mask. Use a Brush Tool (B) with there settings: Size: 200px – 100px, Hardness: 100%, Opacity: 100% (Click D then X on keyboard to set background color to Black). and remove part of sphere on beams. Apply the mask to this layer (click right mouse button on Layer mask, in list select “Apply Layer Mask”).
Create effect 3-D to spheres. Duplicate spheres layer once (use the short key Cmd /Ctrl+ J or go to Layer > Duplicate Layer). Go to Layer Style > Blending Options in a Layer panel and remove the checkbox from Red channel. Move it (My combination: down five times and six times to the left).
Set Opacity to this layer 85%.
Now add a Layer mask to this layer and used Brush Tool (B) (Size: 200px, Hardness: 0%, Opacity: 70%.), remove part of effect on spheres.
Now add some light on them and shadow. Start by adding light. Create New Layer used Cmd /Ctrl+ Shift + N, set Mode: Overlay, set the check-box to: Fill with Overlay-neutral color (50% grey). To fill the new layer of neutral gray. Such a layer, we will only for lighting. In the future, we will use only the usual layers.
Use a Dodge Tool (O) with settings like shown in the image. Lighten up the spheres where they are turned to main sphere, to make them glow effect. This layer must necessarily apply only to spheres without 3-D effect (Hold Option/Alt and click on lower layer).
Create a new layer without Overlay-neutral color (Cmd /Ctrl+ Shift + N). Take a Brush Tool (B) (Size: 200px to small spheres and 400px to big, Hardness: 0%, Opacity: 70%.). Dot put under spheres a shadow.
Place the shadow layer under the layer with the spheres without effect and set Opacity of this layer – 51%. Merge all layers with spheres in the one group “Spheres” (select layers and use Ctrl+ G).
After we placed sphere, we can start creating lightning and the main lighting. Create a new layer under group “Spheres”. Take a Brush Tool (B) (Size: 1200px, Hardness: 0%, Opacity: 100%.).
Make a dot, a little below the main sphere, like shown in the image.
Duplicate this dot-layer (Cmd /Ctrl+ J or Layer > Duplicate Layer) and resize it (Ctrl/Cmd+T or Edit > Free Transform) that it was a little more than sphere.
Create a new layer (Cmd /Ctrl+ Shift + N). Take a Brush Tool (B) (Size: 1400px, Hardness: 0%, Opacity: 100%, Color: #0d7ad7). Make a dot in the upper part of a sphere.
Set to this layer Blending Mode: “Color Dodge”, Opacity: 52%.
It’s time to lightning! Load lightning brushes in Photoshop (if you do not know how to do this, use search:)) Create a new layer below previous layer. Take a Brush Tool (B). For each brush size remains the original, Opacity: 100%, Color: #ffffff. I used brushes: 4,13,17,24.
Change the angle of each brush so that it matches the side of the sphere. On one side these brushes have a light area, try to place a light area under the sphere. Apply the brush dot and in different places.
Add a little glow to this layer. Go to Layer > Layer Style > Outer Glow… Make settings like shown in the image.
Here is my result. I combined all the layers with the background in one group “Interior”.
Create the main lightning. Create a new layer (Cmd /Ctrl+ Shift + N). This layer must be the uppermost and not in all of the groups.
Take a Brush Tool (B). Brush size depends on the distance from the central sphere to the lateral spheres. Angle is set in line with a side of sphere. Set Opacity: 100%, Color: #ffffff. Dot draw lightning. To make them more vibrant press in one place several times.
Try to make dynamic lightning. Do not draw them into one plane. Try to make the visibility of volume, putting lightning further the edge of the sphere. Put a very little lightning at the sphere.
Let’s create exploding lightning bundles (“exploding lightning” brush). Create a new document (File > New or Cmd /Ctrl+ N).
Create a new layer and delete the background layer. Set the foreground color to black (D). Take a Brush Tool (B). Use a variety of lightning brushes (I used numbers 1, 7, 19, 20, 21), but rotate them so that their ends converge at a single point. Change the brush size to not get the same type. (Size 100-300px, Opacity: 100%). You should get something like this.
Take a soft brush (Size: 250px, Opacity: 50%, Hardness: 0%) and draw a point in place where center of all the lightning’s.
Now create a brush – spray. It gives the sparks effect of lightning’s. For the base, I take brush “Airbrush Soft Low Density Grainy” in the standard Photoshop brushes. Follow the images and create a brush. Do not forget to save the resulting brush! If you have another brush with a similar effect, you can use it, or add in this brush something else. This is just an example of creating.
Once you create it, set Size: 10px, Opacity: 10%, Hardness: 0% and draw it to lightning near the center and on the edges of lightning as shown. Draw black only.
Go to Channels panel. Hold Option/Alt and click on RGB channel to select all. Invert this selection to select the entire brush (Cmd /Ctrl+ Shift + I). Now save it as Brush Preset (Edit > Define Brush Preset…). That’s it! Now on the Brushes panel you receive this brush.
Draw, created brush, small explosions from lightning in spheres. Select your brush and on a new layer (this layer must be the uppermost), draw where lightning touch the ground with the spheres. Change the Size and Angle of the brush (Opacity 100%) to make it look realistic. The closer to the viewer, the more I did the size of the brush.
Merge all layers with lightning in one layer (select layers and use Cmd /Ctrl+ E or Layer > Merge Layers…). Now duplicate the glow effect with little lightning in the group “Interior” (Hold Option/Alt and drag effect).
Duplicate this layer twice (Cmd /Ctrl+ J) and change the Blending mode of both layers on “Subtract”. These layers must be below the layer with lightning. Set the Opacity for each layer as shown in Figure.
Layer with Opacity: 15% need to Flip Horizontal (Edit> Transform> Flip Horizontal) that texture not look to the same type.
Select both layers. Use the Free Transform tool (Cmd/Ctrl + T or Edit > Free Transform) to resize the layers larger than the size a working area. So we will create a larger texture in the picture. Similar to blood vessels of the eye or energy flows.
Add a layer mask to one of these layers (when make one layer simply duplicate the layer mask to the second layer) and used Brush tool (B) to remove effect from the center of image. Combine layers with lightning in one group “lightning”.
Begin to create the effect of radiation on the edges of image. Create a new layer under group “lightning”. Fill layer white color ( press D to set the default color. Then Cmd/Ctrl + Del to Fill). Convert this layer for Smart Filters (Filter > Convert for Smart Filters).
“Convert for Smart Filters” are very useful in work. Especially when you are experimenting with effects. You can edit settings applied effects.
First add Fibers to create a texture in the form of strips, so the future texture will look more interesting. Go to Filter > Render > Fibers… Make settings like shown in the image. You can select a different combination by pressing “Randomize” (settings will not change).
Now noise. I decided that the noise would go well with the outside atmosphere and simulated noise and radiation. Go to Filter > Noise > Add Noise… Make settings like shown in the image.
Do not worry, that everything is covered with texture. Change the blending mode to “Overlay”, set Opacity: 60%.
Add a layer mask to this layer and used Brush tool (B) to remove effect, leaving it only at the edges of the image.
Duplicate this layer (Cmd /Ctrl+ J) and change Opacity to 62%.
Repeat steps 4 and 5 for first texture layer to create 3-D effect on texture. So it looks more interesting.
I decided to add more noise at the edges of the image to make sealing texture. Create a new layer below the layers with the texture. Use a soft brush with Size: 500px and white paint over the edges of the image.
Convert this layer for Smart Filters (Filter > Convert for Smart Filters). Add a filter “Add Noise” (Filter > Noise > Add Noise… ). Set the settings as shown in the figure. Be sure to set the checkbox to “Monochromatic” to make noise in black and white.
Set Opacity: 70% and Blending mode “Darken”. So that the noise appeared and became not so sharp.
I combined all the layers of noise in one group and add a layer mask to clean it up a bit from the edges of the image. Be sure to set Opacity for this group to 80%.
I darkened edge of the image to show the texture of the noise. Create a new layer. It should be the top of all groups. Set Opacity to this layer 30%. Use a soft brush and draw like shown in the image. Use Black color (#000000).
Now I offer you two options for toning images. I like both and I suggest you choose the one you like more. The first option we look color version. This is a small correction and color balance with increased contrast. In a dark version changes the color scheme of the image, its contrast and brightness (to create a darker version, go to Step 39). These layers must be above the all the other layers.
Now we consider the color version. I add four adjustment layers. The first adjustment layer is “Curves” (Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Curves…). This layer darkens the picture, which gives a little contrast.
Next adjustment layer is “Color Balance” (Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Color Balance…). I decided to add a little blue to highlight lightning. Also, to enhance the illumination from the central sphere.
Next adjustment layer is “Hue/Saturation” (Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Hue/Saturation…). This layer I was a little discolored, image and darkened it. Because our scene happens indoors. So you need to match the event tinting.
Last adjustment layer is “Curves”. This layer I balanced tone to achieve optimal color of image.
That’s how the layers are arranged and the image looks after applying adjustment layers for Color version.
Now let’s consider the second option toning image. It will be a darker version. Here adjustment layers will be a little more. These layers can not be imposed on the previous version. Start creating tinted from the place where we finished darken the edges of the image (Step 34).
The first adjustment layer is “Curves”. I replaced the light tone gray to get a darker image, because bright colors will appear and result will be is strongly overexposed.
Next adjustment layer “Hue/Saturation”. This layer I strongly darkened image and add a bit more contrast to get a sharp contrast in the future.
Next adjustment layer “Color Lookup” (Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Color Lookup…), select “3D LUT File”. From the drop-down list, select “Bleach Bypass.look”. For this layer, I changed color. Bright places, we darkened, appeared. General atmosphere became darker, but the basic colors are preserved, as details.
Next adjustment layer “Color Lookup”. Select “3D LUT File”. From the drop-down list, select “Kodak 5205 Fuji 3510 (by Adobe).cube”. Set Opacity to this layer 60%. This layer I strengthened the previous layer and this layer adds a little green tones to create an atmosphere of the old abandoned mine.
Last adjustment layer is “Curves”. Set Opacity to this layer 60%. This layer I balance the light and shadows, the image appears optimally and there was much darker edges and very light center.
That’s how the layers are arranged and the image looks after applying adjustment layers for Dark version.
It does not matter toning option, that you chose. The principle remains the same. Select all groups, adjustment layers and duplicate them. Combine it in a single layer (Cmd /Ctrl+ E or Layer > Merge Layers…). Convert this layer for Smart Filters (Filter > Convert for Smart Filters).
I decided to add some dynamics into the picture to get the enhanced effect of the presence and movement of energy. I used the radial blur filter (Filter > Blur > Radial Blur…). Be sure to set the kind of blur on the “Zoom”.
Add a layer mask and remove motion effect from the middle. Do not touch it at the edges. Be careful and try to do little bit of movement on the backs of the sphere. Set Opacity: 85%. That’s it! Picture is fully ready!
Download the PSD
Tutorial by Maria Semelevich.
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